Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld

"...here’s eye candy on every page of the book." — Natural Diamonds "From the 1950s to the present day, a wide range of international designers are examined in detail with many examples of their work clearly illustrated. The author focuses on themes associated with jewellery, including colour, light, proportion, nature and legends." — Lovely Books This sumptuous book showcases the work of women jewellers in the 20th century. Beginning with Arts & Crafts jewellers in Britain, Europe and North America, the author then examines the key figures and movements of the pre-war period including Coco Chanel's legendary 'Bijoux de Diamants' exhibition of 1932, the designs of Suzanne Belperron and the roles of Jeanne Toussaint at Cartier and Renée Puissant at Van Cleef & Arpels. From the 1950s to the present day, a wide range of international designers are examined in detail with many examples of their work clearly illustrated. The author focuses on themes associated with jewellery, including colour, light, proportion, nature and legends. Among the many names included are Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe (designer for Georg Jensen), Margaret De Patta, Wendy Ramshaw, Angela Cummings, Paloma Picasso, Marina B, Lydia Courteille and Michelle Ong. Jewellery firms include: Boivin, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Jensen, Tiffany & Co. Designers featured: Alma Pihl, Coco Chanel, Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard, Olga Tritt, Elisabeth Treskow, Margaret de Patta, Jeanne Toussaint, Line Vautrin, Margret Craver, Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe, Nanna Ditzel, Marianne Ostier, Barbara Anton, Gerda Flöckinger, Astrid Fog, Cornelia Roethel, Catherine Noll, Angela Cummings, Elsa Peretti, Wendy Ramshaw, Marina B, Marie-Caroline de Brosses, Marilyn Cooperman, Paloma Picasso, Victoire de Castellane, Alexandra Mor, Ornella Iannuzzi, Neha Dani, Paula Crevoshay, Nathalie Castro, Claire Choisne, Bina Goenka, Carla Amorim, Monique Péan, Michelle Ong - Carnet, Kara Ross, Lydia Courteille, Suzanne Syz, Sylvie Corbelin, Kaoru Kay Akihara - Gimel, Katey Brunini, Luz Camino, Cindy Chao, Aida Bergsen, Anna Hu, Barbara Heinrich, Jacqueline Cullen, Cynthia Bach.

"When you land on this book, if you do not yet have an appreciation of butterflies or Chan’s workmanship, after reading, it will leave you in awe of both."—Beth Bernstein, Forbes “When I was a young boy, butterflies were flying colours – I knew not their name. Then butterflies became the Butterfly Lovers: a tragedy, a love story, a symbol of eternal love. As I grew older, I found them to embody the words of a great philosopher: life is but a dream; only we need to decide whether we want it to be the dream of a man, or the dream of a butterfly. I could not decide, and so I became The Butterfly Man.” – Wallace Chan Father of The Wallace Cut – an illusionary three-dimensional gemstone carving technique – and The Wallace Chan Porcelain – a ground-breaking material five times stronger than steel – Wallace Chan is a guiding light in the world of jewellery design. Always innovating, always testing boundaries with his materials and technique, Chan’s creations are as stunning as they are intricate. Compiled by jewellery experts, this book explores the cultural and personal significance of Wallace Chan’s most famous emblem: the butterfly. Winged Beauty: The Butterfly Jewellery Art of Wallace Chan features approximately 30 of his finest pieces. Enter a butterfly house of colourful gems, with brooches and necklaces so delicate they might have flown down and alighted on the page.

High jewellery has entered the 21st century with a spring in its step. Design has been as diverse as it has been innovative. The technical advances of the '90s and the new materials being used by this exuberant group of independent jewellers have helped pave the way to breaking down preconceived ideas of high jewellery. Some enjoy the adventure of finding the rarest of gemstones that speak to them, others seek to tell a tale or relay a secret message to the wearer and thus the onlooker. They are artists, engineers and adventurers; and, above all, they are passionate about their world, using only the best workmanship wherever it is to be found. From the great JAR, to James de Givenchy and Nicholas Varney in the West, and Michelle Ong, Wallace Chan and Bhagat in the East, 21st-Century Jewellery Designers: An Inspired Style is an exploration into the designers' worlds. Interviews reveal the designers' inspirations and passions, their signature materials, designing processes, and how their personalities influence their designs. Designers featured: JAR (France); Kaoru Kay Akihara / Gimel (Japan); Walid Akkad (France/Lebanon); Lorenz Bäumer (France); Bhagat (India); Sevan Biçakçi (Turkey); Luz Camino (Spain); Wallace Chan (China); Edmond Chin / Etcetera (China); Lydia Courteille (France); Michele della Valle (Italy/Switzerland); Patrice Fabre (France); James de Givenchy / Taffin (USA); Vicente Gracia (Spain); Hemmerle (Germany); Anna Hu (USA/Taiwan); Michelle Ong / Carnet (China); Suzanne Syz (Switzerland); Nicholas Varney (USA); Stephen Webster (UK); Dickson Yewn / Yewn Heritage (China).

Parisian jeweller Lydia Courteille has been making a very special name for herself over the past thirty years; with her avant-garde and unusual jewellery designs, she has been keeping the Place Vendôme Jewellery Houses on their toes. She is always two to three steps ahead of the fashion world and her inventiveness and daring in the world of high jewellery is legendary. Taking her inspiration from cultural landmarks in France and from numerous historical and literary sources including film, she has combined her love of unusual gemstones with colour combinations that speak to the senses: her chlorophyll green in the Amazonia collection, the sunny bright vitamin C oranges of her Xochimilco collection and the azure blues in the Abysse collection all tease our imagination. Famous for her memento mori and vanity rings, she combines symbols of faith with reminders of mortality to create a juxtaposition of meanings for the wearer to ponder upon. Never macabre and always witty, her edgy jewels recount tales and cultural differences from every part of the globe. She deliberately combines symbols to create a duality in her jewels, marrying the sickle and hammer of the Soviet period with the ultra-femininity of eighteenth century jewellery design to impose contrast and debate on her Scarlet Empress collection. To see, to touch and to wear Courteille's jewels is to travel to rarely visited spots in the world, from the sulphurous volcanic landscape of the Danakil desert to the remote tribes of the Omo Valley and the Bontoc people of the Philippines. Her jewels have a presence, a femininity. They demand respect; they are for strong, confident, women.