W D F Vincent

We take great pleasure in presenting this Work to the trade, confident that it will meet a long-felt need. Although it addresses garments somewhat beyond the usual scope of tailoring practice, they nevertheless form a legitimate, and indeed essential, part of it. There is no more reason to decline orders for such garments simply because certain firms have chosen to specialize in them than there would be in refusing to make a pair of breeches or any other item that naturally belongs within the tailor's craft. It is the duty of every progressive house to embrace those branches which, though sometimes neglected, are vital to the completeness of a craftsman's repertoire. As regards the Work itself, the systems, instructions, and details of execution, we submit with confidence that they will be found both reliable and of genuine practical service. They are not the product of theory or speculation, but rather of one who has gained wide and varied experience in this particular branch of the trade and is therefore well qualified to speak with authority. Both the diagrams and the accompanying text have been prepared with the greatest care, uniting clarity with refinement. Every line has been drawn with precision, and every explanation phrased with utmost attention, so that the student may proceed with confidence and the experienced practitioner may find their skill further enriched. No effort has been spared to make this Work worthy of its title: a genuine Guide to Shirt Cutting - not merely a compilation of rules, but a practical manual filled with hints and suggestions of lasting value to both learner and expert.

The importance and necessity of just such a work as this on Economy in Cutting has found ample proof in the disposal of the First Edition in less than one month, in a Second Edition being again exhausted, and in our now being called upon to introduce a Third. Such a work is bound to be popular, its advantages come so closely home to every cutter, and we are pleased to record that the efforts of both Author and Publisher have been so fully appreciated. From no other publishing firm has emanated so many works relating to cutting, fitting, and practical tailoring, and so much is the time and attention of cutters devoted to these features of their profession, that the matter of Economy in Cutting is, in many cases, perhaps, comparatively a secondary consideration. Tis true, that in the cutting of a garment, saving a quarter of material is of small importance when compared with its good or bad fit. But where, from experience, or the use of our Tailor and Cutter Reliable Model and Special Patterns, the fit may be pretty well assured, even a quarter of material on each coat cut would very soon bulk to a tolerably large amount. At the present time, when competition runs so high and prices must be cut so fine, it became forcibly impressed upon us that a work might very advantageously be entirely devoted to ECONOMY IN CUTTING. We had little difficulty in selecting an author of thorough practical experience for this work: Mr. Falconer, having devoted special attention to the matter of Economy. The completeness with which Mr. Falconer has done his work, will be found in the fact of its containing no less than thirty-six Plates illustrating different lays, ranging from one to four garments on each lay or illustration. The Tables describe the Plates; giving the garment or garments, their sizes, and the quantities of material from which they can very comfortably be cut.

We now introduce another instalment of our work - "The Cutters' Practical Guide," in which we endeavour to embody the result of experience, observation and careful study. Our emanations in this Series of works may not be perfect - we do not claim they are, but we have the satisfaction of knowing that they are - all of them - beneficial to very many Cutters, who bear willing testimony to the benefits they derive from their use. We trust this work on Overgarments for all sorts and classes of men may be found equally helpful to those who are treading the same path we have trod. We are earnestly desirous of helping such, by placing in their hands materials which will better fit them for the discharge of the duties devolving upon them in their different spheres. Thus we shall help in some measure to raise the status of our trade. Recent developments in the Art and Science of Cutting have rendered it possible to produce garments correct in fit and excellent in style. This Art has, however, yet to be acquired, and it is our ambition to contribute by this Series of works, a medium by which this noblest of all Arts can be acquired. We trust as we doubt not, that the same success will attend this latest Part, as continues to attend the previous ones.

Once again we have written our ideas on Trouser Cutting. The system herein described is so simple that the veriest novice may learn it and cut smart-fitting garments by it after a few hours' study; but at the same time embracing problems so difficult that many of them still remain unsolved. We trust and believe this work will be found an advance on all our previous efforts. The Essay which won the Federation Prize was our first attempt, and of this the Secretary of the Federation wrote: - "The very exhaustive nature of the first part of this elaborate essay is in itself an excellent work upon Trouser Cutting in every shape and from; added to this, the elaborate treatment of objects with so many excellent diagrams completes a work upon cutting that has no rival." As edition after edition was sold out, we revised and enlarged upon the principals there laid down, and now, after a lapse of fourteen years, we have remodelled the system, greatly improving it in certain directions, simplifying it where possible, and illustrating its application to a large number of styles never before treated in this way. If the verdict of the trade on our first effort was a favourable one, we have little doubt it will be equally appreciative of this one, which not only contains the results of the research and experience of our younger years, but also the fruit of the maturer thought of added years and enlarged experience. This work, whilst being complete in itself, and thoroughly exhausting its own theme forms part of a series of books treating of every phase of a cutter's experience, by the aid of which we hope to place in the hands of the young man who aspires to a position in the cutting room, a book which will supply him with information of a practical and helpful character under every circumstance of his professional life.

The work we have now completed, which will be placed before the members of an intelligent profession, is essentially the outcome of practical experience in the high-class livery trade. But as the experience of one on so wide a topic as all kinds of Liveries must, of necessity, be of a limited nature, we have gladly availed ourselves of a large circle of trade friends, many of whom are engaged in some of the most noted Livery trades in this great City of London. Many of these have materially helped in the preparation of this work, for which we extend to them our hearty thanks, feeling assured that the ideas and hints gained from such sources have such a practical bearing on the subject of Liveries, that the value of the work has been largely enhanced thereby. We have spared neither trouble nor pains to make this work as complete as possible, and trust it will supply a feeling of want in tailoring establishments.